Friday 3 September 2010

Hidden Glasgow 2. Culture Capital

Art, artifacts, architecture and design: maybe not the first thoughts that come to mind when you think Glasgow. In fact, there is a plethora of museums and galleries (almost all free) as well as stunning architecture (eg Charles Rennie Mackintosh art deco beauties). So I'd like to share a couple of interesting and unusual museums in the city centre that we've enjoyed.

St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art is one of my all time favourite museums. It's located on the Eastern edge of the city, in the same complex as the Glasgow Cathedral and the Glasgow Necropolis, which are both stunning to see.
Inside you'll find a truly amazing array of religious artifacts from stained glass windows, to brass Hindu deities. My favourite thing is the way they deal with context in this museum. Everything was sensitively displayed, and the information went deep into the meanings and reasons for use, belying an attempt at objectivity that seemed at the core of the museum. Kids are encouraged to look at, draw and trace religious iconography from all different religions, they can touch bits of Muslim prayer rugs, menorahs, crosses and chalices. There are books toys and props to help kids de-mystify faiths that are not their own. They explore the Catholic/ Protestant divide (or as it plays out in Glasgow, the Celtic/ Rangers football team divide)We saw an amazing exhibit on rituals, featuring videos, clothing and equipment for many different times and faiths. This museum feels like a sacred space, but liberated from the heavy dogmatic oppression you experience in a building dedicated to one faith. Having a background of working in a Museum, I have to say this is a well presented, interesting museum on a fascinating subject. As an atheist, I wasn't sure that I would be so impressed by this one, so it was a great surprise for me.
My next hidden gem is the Gallery of Modern Art (goma to the locals) is located right in the heart of Glasgow City. It's just a minute's stroll from Buchanan Street Mall, the main shopping strip. The building was originally built by one of the tobacco lords whose wealth relied on the fact that Glasgow was a wee bit closer to the Southern states of America by boat than London. This old building is now beautifully juxtaposed with its contents, a radical modern art gallery. Every Saturday, they run free kids workshops where children engage with an exhibition piece then create their own piece of art. The resources are fantastic and the staff are friendly and helpful. The exhibits are provocative and fresh. Although this museum is another small space, it's packed. Downstairs is yet another surprise, as the basement is a public library. Oh and the fellow at the front (statue of the Duke of Wellington) loves to wear his hat, especially on a Saturday or Sunday morning. I assume it's a Glaswegian rite of passage to fulfill the dare to add his traffic cone.

The last museum I've loved is the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. OK, so it's not really a secret - it's huge! This time it's in the groovy North West corner of the city, close to Glasgow University. What I love about this site is the way it's designed. One half of the building is a natural /ancient history museum, with dinosaurs and mummies, the other is an art gallery. You can see examples of the Glasgow boys and (although I've just seen it's on loan) the Dali Christ of St John of the Cross has pride of place. A marvelous experience all around.

The rosy red sandstone that makes up so many buildings in Glasgow suburbs immediately seperates it from the creamy white Edinburgh. Our whole street shares this material. I love the look and think it adds to the city's character. Apparently the stone in the city ( a mix of creamy and rosy sandstone primarily) used to be black, thanks to pollution! However the cleaned up stones are a metaphor for the reinvention of Glasgow. A city full of culture, beautifully designed and passionately displayed.

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